“The latest travel warning for Baja was updated by the PIkiPiki Department of Stop-Being-Stupid-and-Scared.” The delay time for the update was unfortunately in part the reality of bureaucracy between the real world and this publication. Despite the alarming statistics coming out of Baja California from travellers having a whale shark of time, we made it our mission to visit Baja to confirm the warnings.
The latest travel warning for Baja California is to get there as soon as is humanly possible to escape the stress-induced corporate rat race. Be warned, if not heeding this warning you will be robbed of days quaffing away different beer brands like Tacate, Pacifica, Del Sol, Corona, Negro Modelo, Victoria and Sol as well as Margaritas made with top-shelf tequila. There’s imminent danger of missing out on dramatic sunrises over the Sea of Cortez, constant heatwave desert landscapes, rich marine life and a very laid back rustic way of life. Rules are generally considered mere suggestions. Life offers a bit more freedom to do silly things and not stick to conventional rules and wisdom. Baja somehow follows an air of isolation, divorced from the rest of Mexico.
If your view of Baja is that of dry deserts, cacti, criminals and drug dealers you are sorely mistaken. Baja is the world’s second-longest peninsula which stretches over 1200km with untamed angelic landscapes. Carretera Transpeninsular also is known as Highway1 is the major route between the USA and Cabo a town at the bottom of the peninsula. Tour advise, stay away from that road if possible. Although Highway1 offers some mind-blowing views it will deprive the travellers of the immense beauty of roads less travelled. Small back roads which lead to secluded beaches with turquoise waters, remote cave paintings and crumbling old Spanish missions abound along fun sand monster tracks.
People are friendly, laid back and helpful. We entered Baja at Mexicali and even there the people were friendly and helpful. The best roads to travel are the small side roads which snake through one-horseman villages. Those tracks wind their way along the sides of mountains. The magic of Baja is the sheer volume of options on such a small piece of earth. Ride in a desert with the spectacular cacti, then a short distance drops down to beaches with paradise island lukewarm water.
For overlanders and adventure-seeking motorcycle addicts Baja offers a welcome escape from rules and regulated life. It’s still possible to ride and discover small tracks to hidden spots along the coast where one can wild camp under a star-filled clear sky. Baja is a perfect place for grooving it up in a tiny village oozing with dodgy bars and talkative locals. Restaurants and roadside eateries compete for your business offering mouth-watering tacos and other dishes. In the evenings go sip a margarita while watching the locals drag themselves in for the daily drink specials while mariachi bands moan in the background.
One of the must-stop places is the legendary Coco’s corner in the craggy backcountry near San Felipe northern Baja. For years I have heard and seen photos of this legend in Baja and its been on my top list to visit if ever possible. At the entrance of this Star Wars look-a-like place, old beer cans are strung together and fashioned into Coco’s entrance signage. Coco’s corner is a bizarre oddity of obligatory travel, racing and man cave stickers, motley t-shirts and even oversized woman’s underpants as decorations. Coco’s centrepiece table is a giant wooden cable spool.
Coco greeted us with a “Where are you from? Where are you going?” He’s a soft-spoken old man with a bad case of diabetes. He lost both his legs and scrabbles around on his knees which are tied up in leather pieces. That did not stop his verve for life. He is getting along quite well. Where he comes from, how he ended up there in the middle of nowhere and how it all started is still a mystery to us. He offered us some beers and invited us to sign his visitor’s book. He told us we were only the second South Africans to sign his book. I felt thankful and privileged to have met Coco, because he’s an iconic legend before time and illness take him from Baja.
Coco’s is an example of time standing still in a hyper-fast world, it’s an institution to adventurers and real-life people, an oasis to take a break from the rush of the world and an oasis after days travelling.
There are a myriad of campsites along the coastline and even spots to wild camp. Most of the campsites offer palm leaf covered palapas. We based ourselves for a week in Baia de Los Angeles a scenic fishing village located halfway down the Baja California Peninsula. The “Bay of the Angels” sits against a desert and the Sea of Cortez. It’s a bay with spectacular sunrises and sightings of the gentle giants, Whale Sharks. We stayed at Camp Archelon a well-run campsite and were invited by the owner to have dinner with local Baja fisherman. It’s such a treat to spend time with local people and to hear the stories and updates about a place from the horse’s mouth.
We stuck to the backcountry roads all the way down to La Paz to catch the ferry to the mainland of Mexico. Every now and then a Condor would circle high up in the sky. Most people will know Baja for its strange flora. Baja California has about 4000 species, of which some 700 are found only in Baja. The most famous is the Cardones cacti which can reach up to 20m high and its roots up to 30m deep. There’s Idrias which belong to the Fouqieriaceae, a plant family only present in Mexico and the southwest of the USA and Ocotillo, Devil’s Coachwhip. The Boojum is also known as the Dr Seuss plant, has to be seen to be believed It’s the kind of stuff cowboy movies are made off.
If ever you wanted to enjoy sitting in a hot spring in the sea then the town of Puertecitos around 90 kilometres south of San Felipe is the place to be. We were lucky enough to stay there for a few days alone with only an American couple, a Ukrainian artist and a Russian guy.
This is the place where you can hang in rocky section in the sea in which forms a natural hot spring. Sipping beers, watching the Pelicans while slowly cooking like a Sunday lunch chicken.
On our way, we met up with fellow ‘round the world’ couple AmterdamtoAnywhere Leoni and Peter. We have been following each other online for a while now and eventually got to meet them in person. It’s just wonderful to connect with fellow overlanders, its as if they are long lost school friends that that are reconnecting after a few years.
With the amazing kindness of strangers, we were invited by a South African and an Aussie to stay with them in Loreto for a few days. It was a really welcome chance to get off the road, wash some clothes and enjoy the beach. At that stage it was hell hot and even swimming in the sea was not enough to cool down. Loreto is one of the oldest settlements in the Baja California peninsula, this beautiful town takes you back into the Mexico of legends. It’s an amazing history-rich town with old Spanish colonial buildings and churches.
After three weeks and just over 1400km we got onto the ferry from La Paz to Topolobango.
Baja is still semi undiscovered, reasonably priced and a safe location. With a mystical mix of spectacular scenery and old charm towns, real-world people, stunning cuisine and drinks, amazing sea life and plants, it’s an absolute must-visit.
You have been warned!
Great article and lovely images. Keep well guys.
if sometime you go thru Topolobampo again, in Los Mochis, advice me. will gladly host you.
Pls visit “motolandermex” here in Facebook, there have some Baja pics.
Thanks for sharing, Love it!! I myself was raised in Camalu, BCN. I want to travel the Peninsula someday.
Congrats on your comments of Baja..!!
It’s wonderfull to read how people from other beautifull continents appreaciate Baja
We live in San Felipe and just got back from San Ignacio Springs spending a couple of nights at the Yurts with Terry and Gary. The whales are fat and very friendly this year. Our trip consisted of staying in San Quintin at Hardines. We took the dirt road at Trinidad Valley to cut some time. Next stop was San Ignacio for 2 nights. Then on to Mulege. Don Johnson was at Hotel Serenidad and it was good to visit him. Next stop over night was Loretto staying at the Oasis end of the Malacon. Great bar stop is Augies on the Malacon. Appetizers with drinks at Happy Hour. Last but least stop was Guerrero Negro. Brand new hotel…Terra Sol….and for the best lobster and scallop dinner stop in at Marios on hwy 1 about 1 mile north of the Guerrero Negro turn off. Came home thru Coco’s Corner. Road was 22 miles of graded dirt road. Not bad at all. They are building the colverts and bridges. Hopefully, the new road will be done end of the year. But to sum it up there are NO BAD DAYS on the BAJA….xoox There are so many great places to visit. Another great place is Horse Power Ranch. Coyote Ranch, Meling Ranch and of course Mikes Sky Ranch. Lots of exploring around San Felipe also.
Made my day
I guess I’ll have to return to Baja. Been there 75 or 80 times. Gee, I was there only last week and saw two sunrises over the Sea of Cortez. Guess I’ll have to return to try to find that magical spot on Baja where one can see a sunset over the Sea of Cortez. 🙂
LEGEND!!!
I was full of Tequila, sorry that’s an error 😀
Fixed it, thanks for the heads up.
Amazing .. Summarizes Baja Experience in just one post..
I can totally relate to it.. Great work.
Thanks Nishant ??
Yes agree, unfortunately due to time we missed some of those places. Can easy spend months in Baja ✌?
Thanks Jorge 😀
What a pity, we stayed in Los Mochis when we came off the Ferry on our way to Copper Canyon. Next time thanks for the invite Francisco ✌?
Beautiful pictures and awesome blog post. Glad I found you!
Ya got me now. I read that several times and even read it to another person and my copy definitely said sunsets. Now I see it says sunrises. The Baja gods are laughing at me. I’m sure everyone else is too. Anyway, terrific story. Love it. 🙂
No Bob you were correct, I fixed it after you showed me on it. I could not find it initially but eventually after reading my own damn work properly I got it. It was in the first part of the story. I really appreciate the heads up from you! Stupid drunk Tequila mistake from me! Thanks again ??
PS: Just not sure why the reply function does not post the reply under your post.
I was fortunate to have bren taken there last January with my very best friend in the whole world and now they have bought there own little piece of paradise there and I hope to visit many more times, its beautiful.
shut up already! it doesnt need to be sold. to many asholes already . keep them up north
Great pics and great read, we live in Peñasco Sonora and visit Baja whenever we can. Thanks for the writing.!
Great article and pics! Loving your perspectives!
Great summary, just spent a week riding around Baja Norte, San Felipe to Meling to Mission Santa Maria, Catavina, etc. Always love going to Baja!!!
Baja California is a beautiful place on the earth thanks for coming.
Keep up the great work!!!
Thanks Brad ??
Thank you Carlos, hopefully we can be back in the future, it is a wonderful place! ✌?
Ye man,agree it’s a really cool place, wish we could have spend more time there. ✌?
Thanks Ian ??
hahaha ???
Nice Job. I’ve been living in Baja Sur now for 12 years and fell in love the first time I visited. It’s always tough to say exactly what you love so much about the area, but it’s certainly captured my spirit.
Great read and awesome to hear the ‘new perspective’. It still amazes me when people ask me if I feel safe here… But hey, media sure can throw a wild spin on things.
Keep up the good work and happy travels.
We have had a place in the Baja for years and love the people and the majesty of the Baja. Love the interesting places like Mama Espinosas and the Valle de Guadelupe, San Ignacio and the yurts , Cabo Pulmo and the Bahia de La Concepcion.
Excellent article. I love your first paragraph as, unfortunately, we still continue to hear the comments about safety and such living here in San Felipe. We have not had a chance yet to experience too much of the Baja south of San Felipe as we have been too busy building a house, meeting new best friends and just enjoying life here. We plan to do.more exploring in the future so your article was fantastic in helping me plan for future trips. Thanks so much for a very well written and fun piece.
If you lilke Baja, do not tell anyone or come back, leave it as it is , or invest on conservation NGOs.
Keep it as a secret. Baja is the last natural unspoiled resource in Mexico and most of the world !
So many more experiences for future trips. we fell in love with the sea side town many years ago and plan to spend more time in the future. Great to hear of all the places that we have yet to see! Thank you so much for your perspective!
Time to pack the FJ ???
Oh man, now you gone and done it. Everybody will want to go there after reading this.
We saw the Baja from the opposite view, from the water. Change the various site to water oriented and everything you\’ve observed is spot on. It is a place filled with beautiful sites, beautiful people, and unforgettable experiences.
Just got back a few weeks ago…… Ready to return…..
Sorry ✌?
Great text 🙂 Mr. Coco, from Coco’s Corner was a lobster and abulone diver, he’s from Ensenada, Baja California. Best regards from Guerrero Negro, BCS.
Thanks so much for the reply and information. It’s cool to know ?✌
Great article, and I’ve forwarded it to most of my old friends, perhaps to entice them to revisit us in La Ribera, again. Great photos amigos, and they remind me of my first motorcycle trip to Cabo in 1963.. all dirt then. Lots of adventures, lots of memories, but few old photos. Baja has changed plenty, but thankfully, some of the old country is still unchanged. Few things remain as the were, but Back country Baja doesn’t change much.
Thanks for the reply Russel. It’s amazing and wonderful to see the passion people have for Baja. I am really happy you like it 😀
Excellent article! I share the same love for Baja as you, and the adventures are endless…all one needs is a bit more time to explore the many adventures waiting to be found. I’ve had a place in San Felipe since 1987 and agree that the people are warm and friendly and welcoming to visitors from around the world. Coco’s Corner is truly a trippy place to visit. When I was last there Coco was just celebrating his birthday with mariachi’s, guests and lots of food. It was an all-day extravaganza! Baja is truly a magical place to visit, and even more so when you are among the lucky ones who get to call this place ‘HOME’. Thanks for the great photos and information!
Thanks for the reply Diane 😀
Wonderful pictures friend. I enjoyed reading it!!!
Thanks for the reply ✌?
Thanks for your warning about motorcycle travelling. You described many wonderful features about Baja, that\’s amazing I wanna have a motorcycle ride there with my friend, Sarah. Anyway, I\’ll prepare it well for the warnings.
I enjoy bike-packing – on a bicycle – in Baja. I’ve had tons of fun, and fewer problems than in other places. The travel warnings are true.
Awesome , glad to see u guys had a good time , baja is my home town and yours !
Excelent ! Great to read.
I loved reading your article about the Baja I have known for 25 years!
The media has labeled this beautiful area with nothing but negative.
When people know that we drive the Baja every year to our home on the Sea of Cortez the questions they always ask is ” aren’t you afraid!” I always come back with it is 100% safer than the US or anywhere. They are the most warmest and loving people . If you have any problems on the road they stop and help you and want nothing in return. They love their family and are very hard workers .
I am proud to call Baja home for 5 months every year. My husband discovered Baja in 1977 and new this area would blossom. It is absolutely beautiful with all the different scenery from the farming town in the north to the beautiful cactus and boulders of Cativina to Santa Rosallia seeing the Sea of Cortez for the first time since crossing the boarder.
Spectacular . The beaches of Santispac and Borro Beach, Mulage, Loreto, La Paz, San Jose Del Cabo and finally Cabo San Lucas.
A beautiful 1,000 mile drive that never gets old.
Life is good in Mexico if you don’t get it, you don’t get it!
EXACTLY!!! That’s the Baja I know & LOVE!! Great article! THANK YOU!!! :o)
Wonderful photo journal. We went for a month with our 10 year old son and had a blast! We still didn’t see everything we wanted to see.
I really enjoy hearing about the hidden jems other people find.
My last trip to the Cowpaddy was on a Monday I walked up and the rope was across the door. The owner is sitting on a bar stool and says, sorry we are closed on Mondays. I say well what happens if I take the rope down? He says well then we would be open . Well can I take the rope down? Hmmm then I would be working on my day off. What do you do on your day off ? I sit here on this bar stool. Ooookay well look can I come in and we can discuss whether your open or closed over a cold beer? Sure come on in but put the rope up after you I don’t want a crowd here on my day off.
We spent last winter on the Baja. All the above is true. Shhh! Don’t tell everybody. You’LL spoil it!
Ye keep it a secret 😀
hahaha thats him alright 😀
We will for sure as damn be back in Baja at some stage. Although small there’s so much to discover.
thanks for sharing your beautiful experience ….see you on the road sometime
Thanks Sharon 🙂
Amazing .. Summarizes Baja Experience in just one post..
I can totally relate to it.. Great work.
Thank you Jasmine 😉